We are finishing up our 4th winter at Bearskin.  Each season presents unique challenges on the Gunflint Trail, but winter is by far the toughest.  There are ski trails to groom, roads to plow, steps and paths to keep clear and sanded, cars and trucks to start, cabins to keep warm, and water to keep running — no small challenge when it snows constantly and routinely gets to -20 degrees.

Apparently most people didn’t know it (or so they say now!), but our first winter at Bearskin was extremely difficult.  We ran the resort with a few part-timers and 4 full-time employees:  Sue, Bob, Quinn and Andy.  Dee, the trusted and beloved long-time Bearskin manager, was diagnosed that January with pancreatic cancer.  Every piece of important information about how Bearskin was run resided in her brain. Nothing was written down. We guessed at how everything was done, or else we made it up on the spot — not always successfully. There was no other choice.  We went through that winter in a fog of overwork and confusion. 

Luckily, all but a few regular guests stuck with us anyway.  We learned.  We got better at this. We gradually hired more great employees. We consistently added new items in cabins and lodges.  We fine-tuned our trail grooming skills and added new equipment. We experimented with new ideas.  (Some of them even succeeded!) We added mushing and dining.  We increased the snowshoeing options. With hard work, Bearskin’s winter business just gets better and better every year. There can’t possibly be resort owners anywhere on planet Earth who are more grateful than we are to have such a consistently delightful group of returning and new guests. 

We’ve been doing weekend wine receptions sporadically this winter, in an attempt to replicate the guest interaction and mingling that occurs during summer picnics.  At the picnics we are always amazed by how many guests can tell about coming to Bearskin for 10,20 or 30 years, but we may not have realized how many winter guests also have such extensive Bearskin histories. During the wine receptions we’re finding that a large number of our winter guests have been coming for decades. 

Computer records for all seasons at Bearskin only go back to 2004.  Barb and Dave have kept many hand-written records from the past, but at this point the only complete  records of Bearskin longevity are held in our guest’s minds.  So tell us!  Winter or summer, how long have you been coming to Bearskin?   What year did you first visit Bearskin Lodge–and was there a reason? 

We’re going to put this info into our permanent records.  Then maybe we’ll do something fun with it.  To let us know, just e-mail stay@bearskin.com with your name, the first year you came to Bearskin and how many years you have visited (they don’t need to be consecutive, just total years).  Toss in anything else good we ought to know — you came for a honeymoon, you started as a kid, you came with a group of college friends, or whatever makes the story even better.   We don’t honestly know what we’ll do with this info yet, but we are certain it is going to be fascinating!

A dog team in hot pursuit of skier Heidi Loosen at "Man versus Dog"

The first reaction most people had when they heard about Bearskin’s “Man versus Dog” Wilderness Pursuit ski race was generally, “Pffffft. That’s crazy. Skiers can’t beat dog teams.”

Oh, yes, they can. The results are in for Sunday’s “Man versus Dog” ski race and it turns out that what human skiers lack in four-legged canine speed, they make up for in persistence. A skier will pass the finish line for the first time and then willingly go around for a second loop. Teams of dogs—well, not so much.

Skiers gather for the start of "Man versus Dog" at Bearskin Lodge

With careful timing and race course measuring, the plan was for the dogs to travel a parallel race course to the skiers, covering just enough extra distance to compensate for the dog teams’ additional speed. For awhile it looked like amazing planning. On the return stretch of the first 5k  loop, the dogs were closing in on the fastest skiers and it appeared that they’d all reach the turn-around at the spectator area together.

But that was before the three dog teams realized they were almost “home.” All the dogs that participated in the race this year regularly take guests on mushing trips across East Bearskin Lake. It’s usually fun to watch the teams speed up when they catch sight of Erik’s tipi on the west end of the lake. There’s no place like home, even if you are a dog. But during the “Man versus Dog” race today, the teams needed to turn around to do the second 5 K loop before they headed back to the tipi. Not every dog was convinced that this was a great idea.

Shall we discuss whether we dogs plan to continue this race?

The teams being run by mushers Erik Simula and Adam Harju needed to be persuaded that no, the race was not quite over. While both mushers were in deep discussion with their dogs, David Demmer’s dog team drove in, circled smoothly around them all, and headed back out in pursuit of the skiers. (It does help to know that there were quite a few puppies in this race—you know how stubborn kids can be.)

Sometimes a musher just has to show those dogs exactly what he has in mind.

 Meanwhile, our skiers all still looked strong after the first 5K  and they rounded the bend to do the second 5K without whining, complaining, or barking.

Andrew Grimm — who had another big event this weekend, his wedding — won the race. Dave Seaton from Hungry Jack Outfitters came in a close second. Heidi Loosen, from nearby Camp Menogyn, was the first woman finisher.  The winning musher was David Demmer, since he actually stayed on the race course.

Andrew Grimm and Dave Seaton at the finish line of "Man versus Dog"

We knew the “Man versus Dog” idea could be fun, but that the race would need a little fine tuning to perfect the concept. The timing and course length worked well, and in the future, puppy obstinacy can be solved. Bearskin hopes to hold the race again next year. If you’re a skier, consider being part of “Man versus Dog” in 2012.

Pisten bully headed out across East Bearskin Lake this morning

It started snowing hard yesterday afternoon, then the wind blew wildly all evening. The air is still filled with tiny sparkling flakes. The total accumulation wasn’t great, but there are massive drifts here and there. (Addendum after grooming:  Quinn reports that there was a much greater accumulation of snow than we first guessed, especially at higher elevations such as on Bear Cub.)  

We saw a few skiers out right away this morning, but honestly, there can’t be much left of the ungroomed trails right now. Sunday was a crazy windy night.

Quinn has headed out in the pisten bully, starting with Poplar Creek and Oxcart trails.  On this side of the system he will be the only groomer out today, as Bob has other repercussions of the windy night to deal with. You can expect that all the trails will get done sometime today, but not on the fast program.  Call the lodge if you want a current update of completed trails.

Addendum after grooming:  The grooming progress turned out to be slower than planned on Monday, due to deeper drifts and wetter snow than expected.  Poplar Creek, Oxcart, and Bear Cub are done.  Thye rest will be groomed on Tuesday.

On the morning of February 13th Bearskin Lodge will host the “Bearskin Wilderness Pursuit, Man versus Dog” ski race. 

Bearskin Lodge, a Gunflint Trail landmark since 1925, specializes in exceptional cross-country skiing as well as outstanding dog sled tours into the neighboring Boundary Waters Wilderness. “Bearskin Wilderness Pursuit, Man versus Dog” will feature both of these activities.

The race will pit mushers and their dog teams against skiers in a unique mass start race. Mushers and skiers will race on separate side-by-side tracks, competing head-to-head, but dog teams will travel a greater distance in consideration of their faster pace. Winning skiers and mushers should cross the finish line at nearly the same time.

Prizes will be awarded for fastest skier, fastest musher, and fastest overall time, as well as various other categories. This race, which starts at 10:30 AM, will be a thrilling event for both competitors and spectators. Most of the race course will follow the shoreline and dip into the bays of East Bearskin Lake. The start, finish, and head-to-head competition will be visible from just in front of the main lodge.

Be part of the excitement. Our mushing teams are already registered, but all levels of skiers are still welcome to join in the competition. For more information or to register for the race go to www.bearskin.com or call (218) 388 2292 or (800) 388 4170.

Living the dream -- Part 1

Three and a half years later, life on the Gunflint Trail for Bob is even better.  Below is a picture from today’s project, fixing two underground water lines between the hot tub house and cabins 9-11 that recently sprung leaks.  Now look who gets to stand around watching while somebody else heads down into a disgusting hole.  Bob and Dave Tuttle make excellent supervisors while Quinn digs, digs, digs.  Doesn’t get any better than that.

This is why we had kids, right?

Living the dream -- Part 2

If you’re in the same spot with your gift buying options, maybe a gift from Bearskin would help out.  The easiest gift is a Bearskin gift certificate.  You can purchase one in any amount over the phone.  The certificate is attractive and can be used to buy lodging or gifts at Bearskin.   It’s a straightforward, much appreciated option.

Many items from the Bearskin gift shop can easily be mailed to you or the recipient.  Here are a few suggestions for gifts that are popular with Bearskin guests year ’round and are simple to order and ship.

Books always make a great gift.

"Taste of the Gunflint Trail" $19.95

"Becoming a BWCA Family" $12.95

Taste of the Gunflint Trail is more than just a cookbook.  The stories and histories of resort life on the Gunflint Trail are fascinating reading even for people who don’t like to cook. Becoming a Boundary Waters Family offers advice on basic camping and outdoor skills for anyone who enjoys canoe trips, but the book’s focus is on learning canoe trip skills for families.  If you know someone who is just starting to consider venturing out into the BWCA, this book is a thoughtful gift.

How about a Bearskin poster or the historic 1935 Bearskin map?  These are attractive and are inexpensive to mail.

Bearskin Lodge 11" x 17" Poster "Stream" $18.00

Bearskin Lodge poster 11" x 17" "Moon" $18.00

Historic 1935 Bearskin Map 11" x 17" $15.00

 

Betsy Bowen Bearskin "Winter" Print 5" x 7" $8.00

Betsy Bowen Bearskin "Summer" Print 5" x 7" $8.00

Bearskin Lodge Knife $8.00

Gunflint Trail Moose Playing Cards $5.95

Someday Bearskin may have a real online store, but for now if you’d like to buy any of these gifts (or anything else  you recall as being stocked in the Bearskin Lodge gift shop) just call our front desk at (800)338-4170.  We can figure out your shipping costs for you then, but almost everything we sell will ship for less than $5.00. We don’t add big shipping charges.  We will charge for the padded envelope and the actual cost of postage.  All the items listed here ship well in padded envelopes via the post office, or UPS if you prefer.  Post office items go out every morning; UPS shipments go out a few times a week from Bearskin. 

 It’s not too late to shop at a store that hasn’t run out of everything!

Cabin 2, after the snow

 Wow, it’s November 26th and it is already real winter on the Gunflint Trail.  When the Twin Cities was hit with 12 inches of snow earlier in the month, Bearskin received only about 5 inches.  It gave us a wintery appearance, and was enough to give us a start on preparing ski trails, but it wasn’t enough snow to get excited about.  A few inches of additional snow fell sporadically after that, just enough to require repetitive shoveling.

Dad and daughter ski lessons.

 And then our Wednesday/Thursday snow came and suddenly it was truly winter.  We’re grooming ski trails, plowing roads, shoveling steps, sanding hills, and snow-blowing pathways — so totally different from the spring, summer, and fall routines at Bearskin.  We are very busy for Thanksgiving weekend this year, but most of our guests booked a Thanksgiving cabin without any intention to ski. The new snow gave several families an opportunity to try skiing for the first time.

Bearskin had snow last winter when many resorts along the North Shore did not.  We’re lucky that way; we seem to be in a snow belt.  But this early start to the ski season is exceptionally promising.   We’re offering an early season December special between December 1 – 17: three nights for the price of two, an especially good buy because most of those dates are still on Value Season pricing.  Come up and make the most of our early winter skiing.

Pisten Bully, out on the Lit Loop for the first time this season.

 I never quite know how to categorize November.  Bearskin has a daily photo site on Flickr with pictures labeled by their dates.  November can look like this:

November, the fall version, 2009

Or this: 

November, the winter version,2010

 After each month is over, we need to put the month into a group on Flickr – is it fall or winter?  The calendar says November is “fall,” but the pictures often say “winter.”  We watch the lake “ice-over” – then watch it melt again.  We pray for snow to guarantee a good ski season — and then hope for no snow to extend our pleasant fall.  We enjoy the opportunity to be at our own resort in peace and quiet — but then wish guests were here to enjoy the November beauty and solitude.

Bearskin employees have plenty to do in November.  All the paraphernalia that defines summer–boats, docks, swim rafts, beach chairs–needs to disappear for winter.  The pisten bully and G2 groomers need to be brought out, the snow shovels and ski racks need to reappear, the wood racks need to be filled.

Most Bearskin employees  spend November “deep cleaning.”  There are two goals in deep cleaning:   to get every inch of every cabin immaculately clean for the next season, and to find the secret items people hid in cabins for next year.  At this point we think we know all the hiding places, including the concealed spot in Cabin 3 where notes survived for years.  But our guests keep coming up with creative new clandestine challenges. 

Deep cleaning in November can be a tough job because the hard usage of the summer takes a toll on our cabins.   Bearskin cabins are all lovely, but there is no end to what we would like to replace and revamp in every cabin if we had an endless supply of money.  (I’m working on that “endless supply of money” by investing $1 a month in winning Powerball, but surprise, surprise, so far that hasn’t been paying off for us.)  Every fall and spring we try to upgrade a few items in every Bearskin cabin.  We always appreciate input from our guests about what they would most like us to improve next. Feel free to write to us at stay@bearskin.com if you have suggestions.  There’s nothing like living in a cabin for a week to truly know what ought to be updated.

Our big project for fall is a new stone fireplace in Lynx Cabin #9.  All Bearskin cabins have either a woodstove or a fireplace.  For years the favorite fireplace has been the one in Birch Cabin #5.  That’s a very basic fireplace, but guests love it and as a result, it can be very, very difficult to get a spot in Cabin 5.  We put a similar fireplace into Spruce Cabin #1. That has made Cabin 1 much more popular, but it’s too small a cabin for many family groups.  Cabin 9 was open for much of the fall, so we decided to experiment with a massive fireplace in there.

The stone mason is nearly done, and so far we think the new fireplace is beautiful.  It’s made from local river rocks that have been sliced in half, rather than from “cultured” stone.  The firebox is a very energy-efficient unit, so this will not only be beautiful but more cost-effective than the average fireplace. 

Stone mason Mark Harrington working on the new Cabin 9 fireplace

If this November is any indication, we should have a beautiful, snowy winter this year.  Cabin 9 will be a gorgeous place to relax in front of the fireplace after enjoying a ski, dog sledding, or snowshoe adventure at beautiful Bearskin. .

This story is no exception.  It was a relatively slow fall afternoon, when unexpectedly the usual background sound mix of computers, coolers, refrigerators, fluorescent lights, and monotonous lodge music abruptly stopped.  A  sudden deeper silence is always the first sign of a power outage, followed shortly by the fading whistle of alarms reluctantly relinquishing their electrical connection. 

Our power outage routine is pretty ingrained by now – send Andy out to flick on switches in various locations around the resort; dig around to find the old rotary dial phone to plug in; call Arrowhead Electric to report the power loss; reluctantly drag out the generator in case power is slow to be restored; and repeatedly tell each other how happy we are that it is not a subzero winter day.

Very little can be accomplished in the lodge office without electricity. I was mindlessly paging through the JC Penney sale catalog, when a very unusual noise broke the silence.   Was it a mechanical sound?  A system breakdown?  A result of the power problem?   No, it only took milliseconds to realize the noise originated from something living — and it was screaming.

The deep, pained noises echoing from across East Bearskin Lake were reminiscent of sound effects from a monster movie.   It seemed implausibly loud and close; clearly it was not a human.  I ran down to the lake, expecting to view a horrifying scene on shore.  Every Bearskin employee and guest quickly converged at water’s edge, all of us intently staring towards the source of the sounds across the bay. Nothing was visible, but as the unceasing screams continued we all knew we were listening to something die.  It was an excruciatingly long, slow death.

Eventually silence returned, leaving us all a bit disquieted.  We rehashed the bits and pieces of the event that we could each recall.  Did we hear one animal noise or two in the beginning?  Was there a deeper growling at first or did the sound change?  Andy had been out checking on the electrical problems when he saw a large, German-shepherd colored wolf duck into underbrush along the shoulder of the service road.  He noted the running tracks of a deer or a small moose in the same spot.  Kate and Quinn reported a panicked deer running close by staff housing.  Guests in cabin 6 paddled along the shoreline, attempting to see what occurred, but there were no apparent signs of a traumatic demise.  

The general consensus was that we had probably listened to the death of a moose on the opposite shore.  Or perhaps a bear.  An animal with a deep, loud death cry.  An animal that did not die easily.   We returned to the mundane tasks of dealing with a power outage, but we all felt a bit on edge.

After work Ryan decided to walk the Bear Cub Trail in search of an explanation for what happened.  With a great deal of exploring, he found the remains of a young deer that had been killed by wolves very near the lake’s edge on the opposite shore.  Andy had told us that deer could make a profoundly distressed noise like we heard, but until Ryan located the carcass none of us actually believed that the prolonged death cry reverberating across the lake could have emanated from such a quiet, small animal.

Death in a wilderness environment is a daily occurrence. Studies report that wolves in the Great Lakes region normally consume 15-18 deer per wolf per year. With so many wolves in our area, what we heard must happen around us often.  But we don’t usually listen to the pain.  The nature of the predator/prey relationship  is easier to accept when death is silent, when predation happens in a way that doesn’t disturb or distress us.  Listening to a death in the woods was a disconcerting reminder of reality in the wild.

 The contest offered an $11,000 first place check, so Curtis is understandably pleased about the outcome.  It’s going to be much tougher to expect him to work for peanuts now at Bearskin. @@

Picture courtesy of http://www.masterswalleyecircuit.com/